I tested it with an Agfa Shur-Shot—and here’s how it went.

Want to shoot 35mm film in a medium format camera like the Agfa Shur-Shot Special? With a couple of cheap adapters, some tape, and a little patience, you can make it happen. It’s weird. It’s fun. It works. Here’s everything I used, how I loaded it, and what I learned—so you don’t have to guess.

Why Shoot 35mm in a 116 Camera?

The Agfa Shur-Shot Special was designed for 116 film, which is long discontinued. While 120 film is a common workaround, 35mm is even more accessible and gives you a unique look. When used in a medium-format camera, the sprocket holes of 35mm film become part of the final image, creating a raw, full-frame aesthetic you can’t get from standard 35mm cameras.

I chose Fujifilm Fujicolor Superia 400 for this experiment—a color negative film known for its versatility and vibrant tones. It was a perfect fit for this hybrid setup.

The Tools You’ll Need

These are the exact tools I used to load 35mm film into a 120-format box camera:

🧰 Here’s what I used:

• 35mm to 120 Film Spool Adapter
This adapter holds the 35mm roll in place on a 120 spool so it fits in the camera’s film chamber.

• 116 to 120 Film Spool Adapter Kit
Converts the larger 116-size chambers (common in old box cameras) to accept 120 spools.

• Fujifilm Superia X-TRA 400 35mm Film
Reliable color film, 400 speed, good for various lighting.

How to Load 35mm Film Into the Agfa Shur-Shot

Step 1: Insert the Film

Drop the 35mm film (fitted with the 35mm-to-120 adapter) into the film chamber on one side. On the other, place an empty 120 spool (with 116-to-120 adapter) to take up the film.

Step 2: Tape It

Use a small piece of clear tape to attach the film leader to the take-up spool. Make sure it’s secure but smooth so it winds evenly.

Step 3: Advance the Film

Manually wind the camera to get past the film leader before starting your first shot—about 3–4 full turns should do it.

Advancing the Film: Preventing Overlaps

Since this camera wasn’t designed for 35mm film, you’ll need to manually control frame spacing. Here’s a rough guide based on my tests:

• Using 35mm Film: Turn the advance knob 0.85 full turns (or 1.7 half turns) per shot

• This gave me about 12 usable frames per roll

💡 Pro Tip: Use a scrap roll to test. After a few advances, open the back in a darkroom or changing bag to check spacing. Adjust accordingly. Watch the video.

Things I Learned (So You Don’t Have To)

🔧 Frame Spacing (a.k.a. The Trial & Error Part)

Because the camera wasn’t built for 35mm, you’ll have to eyeball the frame spacing. Based on my tests:

Advance 0.85 full turns (or 1.7 half turns) for each shot
Expect around 12 usable frames per roll

💡 Test first. Use a scrap roll, wind a few frames, then check spacing in a darkroom or changing bag.

💥 What I Learned (a.k.a. What Went Weird)

Light leaks are inevitable
Tape up seams and especially the red film window. Black gaffer or electrical tape works great.
Frame spacing takes practice
Your first roll might be a mess. That’s part of the fun.
Sprockets look incredible
Those exposed sprockets and film edges? Chef’s kiss. Keep them in the scan if you can.

Tips for Development & Scanning

When you send your roll to a lab, let them know it was shot in a medium format camera so they don’t crop out the sprockets during scanning. Not all labs are equipped to scan full-width 35mm with sprockets showing, so double-check before sending.

Alternatively, if you’re scanning at home, a flatbed scanner or DSLR scanning rig gives you more control over the final image crop.

Final Thoughts

Shooting 35mm in the Agfa Shur-Shot was clunky, unpredictable, and kind of magical. If you’ve got an old box camera collecting dust, this is a low-stakes way to experiment and fall in love with film all over again.

The results? Full of light leaks, dreamy borders, and that sweet analog imperfection.

Try it. Break the rules. Make something weird.

And tag me if you do—I want to see it.

-V